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I'm in the midst of a build right now, and I'm considering not including an end wedge. The ends of each side line up very closely (I don't know how close to perfect the joint would need to be to be considered acceptable) and the grain matches up very well between the two pieces. I hadn't planned to do this from the start, but I'm going for a more modern design scheme and it seems this may be able to work. Does anyone have any example photos I could examine to compare my joint against? You can certainly tell there is a visible joint on mine, but it is certainly a very tight one. I have never actually seen one of these in person, so I don't know how well this needs to be executed to be labeled acceptable. I think I'm well within that range, but I just want to make sure the standards aren't unbelievable high in this area!

Ellison no reason why that shouldn't be a viable option. Sounds like you have a very good joint. I like to use a scarf joint with the upper bout side overlapping the lower like the top illustration.

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There's a Howard Klepper build thread over at the AGF where he does one.

Here's the link: http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=203278&page=7

Neil

Thanks for the replies! Bob, that's an interesting idea. I already have made the joint, but next time I may have to mess around with that idea.

I checked out Howard's build. His work is always so inspiring! I can only hope mine will look half as good as his! But I've decided to go for it. Once it's been sanded a bit, it looks pretty nice. Besides, I'm doing a lot of new things on this build, so why not add another feature to the list!

My Gibson AJ has no wedge.

Lots of archtops built that way, too. You could also just continue some purfling down between the ends of the sides.

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Violin family instruments normally don't have a wedge or anything else between the sides at the tail end. A nice tight butt joint here is expected, and seen a mark of good craftsmanship. I say go for it!

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It's down at the end, nobody looks at the end!

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I've done it on several instruments. Personally, I prefer the look of the bookmatched grain all the way around an instrument.

In order to get good clean straight edges that butt perfectly, I use a power miter saw to cut the ends of the bent sides. It's risky, but if you go slow enough, and have a really good blade, then it's do-able.

I did make one instrument where I laser-cut the sides to incorporate dovetails (pre-bending) - it came out very nicely - too nicely really, cuz you can't see the join and have to look hard to see the dovetails! Howards idea of contrasting woods with dovetails works much better.

Cheers,
Dave F.

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Joshia de Jonge (Sergei's daughter) does hers like this.
http://www.joshiadejonge.com/front.html

Here's a Santa Cruz Orchestral Pre-War
http://www.laguitarsales.com/pages/4108/SCGC_OM/PW.htm

Kevin Looker

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For butt joints on archtops, I uese David Hurd's ukulele method of clamping the bent sides together at the butt and sanding to a line using the stationary belt sander. Any off square errors are countered much like when jointing back and top plates together on a shooting board. Makes for a nice tight joint. Scroll to the bottom.
http://www.ukuleles.com/BuildingHowTo/edgeglue.html

Darrel: Thanks for that link. Why is it that sometimes the hardest of problems have such a simple answer. In other words why am I so dumb that I can't think of stuff like this......????

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